I have skied at Zao 5~6 times since 1984. It is a resort with a great traditional village atmosphere, hot springs and skiing for everyone. The snow monsters look fantastic, however opportunities for skiing amongst them are for advanced skiers only. Most people just stick to the groomed runs. The thing I like most is the ski-in ski-out accommodation options and proximity of the whole village to the lifts. The only draw back is the toll road costs from Yamagata, but if staying at Zao you only pay once. The other negative is that there is a bit of a traverse between some lifts but this is only a minor gripe and won't trouble good skiers. The big bonus is the snow quality, varied terrain and different aspects offering sheltered runs depending on wind direction. The government run Minshiku Ryuzanso is only 50m from the Chuo (middle) gondola and at 8,000 yen per night including 2 meals can't be beat. It also has its own onsen. The manager Furukawa san is still there (2008) and very helpful for foreigners. Highly recommended.